BEACON HILL – HISTORY AT YOUR OWN PACE
Do you ever dream about being transported back in time and place? Then Beacon Hill in Boston is the place to go. This Walker’s Guide to Beacon Hills and its Neighbors is not your typical checklist of things to do when visiting a new place. It’s more of a way to get inspired and maybe even feel the breath of history. All within walking distance!
Simple Living
Allan and I instantly fell in love with Boston. Well, almost instantly. First, we had to get over the fact that we were staying in a 400 sq ft. one-bedroom apartment. I knew, of course, since I was the one who booked the place. However, sometimes you have to prioritize between location and size. I just didn’t realize how small 400 sq ft was exactly. If you want to know more about how living in a small Boston apartment worked out, please read: Comfortably Uncomfortable – How to Adjust to Simple Living.
“Walkable” comes at a price
We didn’t need a car in the city since Boston is very walkable and bike-friendly. However, finding a parking spot in the narrow cobblestone streets was impossible. After roaming the streets late at night we were lucky to find parking at Boston Common Garage. Only $600/month which we didn’t exactly budget for.
Cobblestones and gas lamps
From our small apartment, we stepped into what I imagine 1800-century England must have looked like. We walked along charming cobblestone streets winding through the entire neighborhood. Elegant Federal-style row houses and historic gas lamps were on both sides of the narrow tree-lined streets. We visited Boston around Halloween and Beacon Hill seemed to be made for this holiday. Every doorstep of the historic homes was elaborately decorated with pumpkins, gourds, and mums besides over-the-top Halloween decorations.
Treelined streets, cobblestones, and decorated staircases in Beacon Hill
Boston Common – The Heart of Boston
Less than five minutes of walking from our apartment, as a green oasis in the heart of the city, we walked into Boston Common. It was established in 1634 and is one of the oldest parks in the United States. The tree-lined pathways and open grassy areas for picnics and sports make it a popular spot. We walked through the scenic beauty of Boston Common daily for shopping, the gym, cafés or restaurants.
Boston Common in Beacon Hills
Behind this stretch of urban green space in the heart of the city, the Boston city skyline towered as a striking contrast to the rich history of Beacon Hill. Modern glass-walled skyscrapers, like the Prudential Center and the John Hancock Tower, showcased Boston’s status as a thriving metropolis.
Public Garden – A must-see
Across from Boston Common, we could walk into Public Garden, America’s first public botanical garden. It looked slightly more formal than Boston Common with beautiful Victorian-style floral arrangements, a pretty lagoon, historic statues and the iconic “Make Way for Ducklings” sculpture. This time of year the famous bronze ducks were dressed up for Halloween. I’m sure the garden is beautiful all year, but the way the vivid foliage framed the lagoon, as autumn peaked, was picture-perfect.
George Washington statue in Public Garden in Beacon Hill
The Freedom Trail – the Footsteps of History
Boston’s impact on American History is visible everywhere around Beacon Hills. Sites like Paul Revere’s house, the Old North Church, and the Massachusetts State House, are among a network of historically significant landmarks in the neighborhood. The Massachusetts State House serves as the state capitol and seat of government for the Commonwealth of Massachusetts. It can be seen from Boston Common and is easy to spot with its distinctive golden dome. These historic sites are all showcased along a 2.5-mile-long path, The Freedom Trail. The trail is marked by a red line on the sidewalk throughout Beacon Hill, and no matter where we went, we were fortunate to walk at least part of it.
On the Freedom Trail: Massachusetts State House and Park Street Church in Beacon Hill
Brews and Bakes
To give us both some space, I worked from one of the local cafés a few times a week. I didn’t mind since Beacon Hill has so many quaint cafes just around the corner. Tatte Bakery & Café, Blank Street Coffee, and Caffe’ Nero were some of my favorites. I didn’t feel quite as out of place in these café as I had in Logan Square in Chicago. Somehow the vibe in Boston was different. Both cities had one thing in common though – a lot of young people!
City life appeals to a wide range of people, but universities like Harvard University, Boston University, MIT, and Northeastern University ensure the presence of a large student population. Many young professionals are drawn to the big cities for job opportunities as well. I love young people, but they tend to make older people feel ignored, invisible, or plain and simply…old.
North End – Taste of Italy
Since Allan and I both love Italian food, we walked to the Italian part of town several times. The neighborhood is known as the North End and is Boston’s oldest residential community. It is packed with Italian restaurants, cafes, and pastry shops. Even in late October, we could eat dinner outside at a small cafe along Salem Street. The family matriarch served delicious Italian food and called Allan “sweetheart” like he was a young boy or part of the family. The atmosphere in North End was always lively, and the smell of garlic, basil, and fresh bread…irresistible!
The first night we visited this vibrant neighborhood we were drawn to a long line of cheerful people. They were waiting in front of Bova’s, a traditional Italian bakery open 24/7. Waiting in line at a bakery around 10.30 pm just seemed like a normal thing to do, so we joined. Bova’s is known for its wide variety of traditional Italian pastries. However, we quickly learned that the hype was all about their cannoli. Classic or chocolate-covered cannoli filled with every imaginable flavor of ricotta cheese. Toppings like pistachios, chocolate chips, sprinkles, cookies ‘n cream, and strawberries. None of us are crazy about cannoli but nevertheless, we patiently waited in line at the bakery when we were in the neighborhood. I think Bova’s is the closest thing we will ever get to an episode of Cake Boss.
Faneuil Hall – Historic Dining
The Faneuil Hall Marketplace is near the waterfront in downtown Boston. It once played a role in America’s fight for independence but has evolved into a bustling tourist destination set around a cobblestone promenade. The marketplace has four main buildings, Faneuil Hall, Quincy Marked, North Marked, and South Marked. I always appreciate how old buildings can be repurposed. It’s a beautiful area to wander around, do some shopping, or maybe enjoy the street performers. The Quincy Market is famous for a wide range of dining options. It’s a fun place to look at all the different food options that range from local specialties like clam chowder and lobster rolls to international cuisine.
a Rainy Day
As much as we wanted to see and experience everything in and around Boston, I realized this journey wasn’t just about checking things off a list. Often, we both felt exhausted after a weekend with little downtime. So, when we woke on a Sunday morning to the sound of rain hitting the AC unit, we squeezed into the small two-seater in the living room and watched a Premier League game.
The Paramount – Timeless Charm
After the game, Allan found a historic, local diner, the Paramount, just around the corner. Strawberry, banana, and Nutella waffles sounded great on a rainy day, so I was easy to persuade. Paramount was a popular place, and we waited in line outside for about 45 min in the pouring rain. While waiting, we wondered what makes people wait for that long in the rain, just to get breakfast. The lively and cozy atmosphere of the Paramount and the way it embodied the charm of Beacon Hill definitely made it worth the wait. Our breakfast was prepared in a traditional open kitchen diner style, and we were fascinated to see the mountains of hand-cut potatoes being cooked on a large skillet. This is something worth doing at least once while in Boston.
Charles Street Shopping
The Paramount is located on Charles Street, one of the most renowned and picturesque streets for boutique shopping. Although I never bought anything, I loved how the historic Boston atmosphere perfectly complemented the unique, upscale boutiques, antique shops, and specialty stores. Besides, Tatte Cafe & Bakery is located in Charles Street!
Walk the Wharves
Christopher Columbus Waterfront Park, behind the marketplace, is a great place to relax and enjoy the views of the city. The entire area along the waterfront has been redeveloped, including several historic wharves. What used to be one of the busiest piers in colonial times, Long Wharf, is now a popular tourist destination. From the wharves, you can go on a boat tour, or a ferry, or just enjoy the stunning view of the Boston skyline like we did. The whole area is pretty spectacular and some of the other wharves at the waterfront are Central Wharf, India Wharf, and Rowe’s Wharf. The archway and marina of Rowe’s Wharf make it one of the most recognizable features on the waterfront.
The area around Christopher Columbus Waterfront Park and historic wharves
Echoes of the Past
Visit the Boston burying grounds and you will walk through centuries of history. Granary, Copps Hill, and King’s Chapel Burying Ground are all located along the Freedom Trail. They are all beautiful and peaceful sanctuaries for those who passed away but they also reflect changes in religious and cultural views over time. Early Puritan symbols of death like death’s heads and winged skulls have evolved into winged cherubs, urns, and willow motifs. I felt like getting a glimpse into the past in a haunted but magical way when walking among the weathered and crooked headstones, ornate family tombs, and mausoleums. If you are into haunted spirits of the past take a look at Ghost and Gravestones for a tour around the burying grounds after dark.
The Granary Burying Ground in Beacon Hill
Bargain Books and shopping
In Beacon Hill, several cute bookstores are just around the corner. Beacon Hill Books & Cafe and Commonwealth Books (used books), to mention a few. The Brattle Book Shop deserves a special mention. It’s one of America’s oldest and largest used bookshops and it’s a must-visit for anyone interested in rare finds and general second-hand titles. What I loved the most about this bookstore was a charming outdoor lot filled with used books. Browsing around the many shelves and carts filled with old bargain books, I felt transported back in time once again.
Brattle Book Shop near Downtown Crossing
The Brattle Book Shop is located near the Downtown Crossing area. This is a vibrant and busy shopping district with pedestrian-only zones creating a lively atmosphere. It has a wide selection of retail stores, diverse dining options, street entertainment, and everything set in a unique urban landscape.
Gateway to the East
Chinatown in Boston is one of the oldest Chinatowns in the United States and the only one in New England. It’s a bustling and densely populated area and the restaurants and food markets serve everything from Dim Sum, Hot Pot, and boba tea to mooncakes and Vietnamese banh mi. Walk through Chinatown and you’re up for an authentic cultural experience. A traditional elephant paifang gate marks the entrance and it’s the most photographed landmark in Chinatown. I found some interesting murals in this area as well.
The Paifang Gate in Chinatown
Cheers!
I think most people my age are familiar with the popular sitcom “Cheers” (Or “Sam’s Bar” as we used to call it in Denmark). The idea for the show and the show’s exterior shots are based on a bar, in Beacon Hill. Of course, we had to visit this friendly neighborhood bar where “everybody knows your name”.
As soon as we opened the door the familiar theme song spilled out from the traditional bar. It doesn’t look exactly like the bar from the television series, but memorabilia and signed photographs make it feel like stepping into the world of Cheers. One thing that struck us, was a large guy sitting at a corner of the bar. His physical appearance resembled the character Norm Peterson, and he seemed to have Norm’s enthusiasm for drinking beer as well.
Take Off with Twenty-One pilots
On a Saturday night, we got tickets to a Twenty-One Pilots concert at TD Garden. We’d seen this dynamic duo once before in California, and they seemed to have followed us to Chicago and now Boston. The concert was a crazy mix of electro, rap indie, pop, and rock, and it was incredible. Tyler Joseph’s vocals and piano skills were amazing combined with Josh Dun’s energetic drumming. We had such a fun night and the fact that our apartment only was a 15-minute walk from the venue made it even better. Maybe it’s obvious by now but I love when I get to experience great things within walking distance!
And there is more!
There are so many other things to experience in Beacon Hill on foot but only so much time. If you want to explore Boston by bike please read Biking Boston – A Guide to the Ultimate Urban Adventure. If you want to read more about areas around Boston, read: Discover the Hidden Gems of New England