IN JUST ONE DAY
Is it possible to fully discover the heart and soul of New Orleans in just one day? No doubt this incredible Southern city deserves so much more attention than just a single day. However, on our way from Cocoa Beach, Florida to Austin, Texas we made a stop in New Orleans. We found, that one day is enough time to explore the historic French Quarter, listen to some soulful jazz, join the party on Bourbon Street, and take an airboat ride in the moss-draped Bayou. We also had enough time for a taste of Southern comfort food and even got a better understanding of America’s cultural roots.
Before reaching New Orleans we made a short stop in Biloxi, Mississippi for Allan to take a walk down Memory Lane.
LEAVING Cocoa Beach
Leaving Cocoa Beach was bittersweet l. I loved the crashing sound of the waves, the fresh salty air, and the changing colors above the ocean. However, after nine months of traveling as a digital nomad, I was convinced I would find something to love about any place. Maybe it’s easier to believe when you only stay one month in a place, but still.
As we were leaving, Allan was still caught up with work. He insisted on driving, so picture this: Allan, on a conference call at the same time as he was navigating traffic, checking text messages, drinking coffee, and paying for toll roads. Irresponsible? I agree! Stressful? Yes, especially from a passenger perspective!
Biloxi
Back in BILOXI
We made it to Biloxi, a coastal city by the Gulf of Mexico. More than 40 years prior, Allan and his family had lived in this city for three months, while his dad trained at the Keesler Air Force Base. The plan was to spend a few hours in Biloxi before heading on to New Orleans.
“Greetings from Biloxi” mural
Biloxi, Mississippi
Southern cuisine
After exploring Downtown Biloxi we had lunch at the Half Shell Oyster House. Our motel included breakfast, – a bag full of sugary granola bars (aftermath of COVID-19), so we were excited for some Southern comfort food. We shared a Po-Boy with voodoo sauce, a traditional Louisiana sandwich with fried seafood such as shrimp, crawfish, oyster, or crab; Royal Reds, which are Cajun boiled deep-water shrimp with a sweet lobster-like flavor; grilled asparagus with gorgonzola butter; seafood stuffed portabellas; sweet potato crème Brulé, and a salad. The food was incredibly flavorful, especially since we were coming from a Florida beach community where everything was bland and served on paper plates.
Shrimping boat in the Biloxi Harbor
Shrimping
We walked around the Biloxi Marina and Harbor before heading on to New Orleans. The harbor was fascinating and gave us major Forrest Gump vibes with its large shrimping boats and colorful trawls designed to capture shrimp from the ocean floor.
As we continued our journey along miles and miles of powdery white sand beaches and the brownish Gulf of Mexico, I was thankful we’d had the chance to experience this place that made such an impact on Allan many years ago.
Gulf of Mexico
New Orleans
A Place to Stay
For the full New Orleans experience you will probably want to stay in the French Quarter. However, we didn’t think navigating a big truck around the narrow streets was the best idea, let alone leave it unattended overnight with all our belongings. So, instead, we booked a tiny house by the river north of the city.
Two minutes before the estimated time of arrival, we found ourselves in an industrial harbor area. Something didn’t look right. Nevertheless, soon after, we found the New Orleans RV Resort and Marina right next to a harbor navigation canal. Despite the odd location, it was like a small tucked-away oasis right by the water.
New Orleans RV Resort and Marina
A Melting Pot
New Orleans is a melting pot of French, African, Spanish, and Caribbean influences. An unforgettable mix of buzzing streets, soulful jazz, historic buildings, and serene courtyards. The city is probably most famous for its French Quarter, spicy gumbo, and lively festival, Mardi Gras, but just a short drive from the city, you’ll find an entirely different world of swamps and Bayous.
AIRBOAT RIDE IN THE BAYOUS
Ready for an airboat adventure in the New Orleans Bayous
The following morning, we went on one of these airboat tours in the Bayous, about a 45-minute drive from the city. We booked with Airboat Adventures on a large airboat (30 people), but they also have smaller airboats for a more intimate experience.
The airboat slowly navigated out on open water before picking up speed and effortlessly skimming fast over the surface of the swamp. We felt the cooling spray of water and a humid, earthy scent in the air as our guide T. Earl, navigated the airboat through an incredible network of marshes, rivers, and wetlands. We passed a large alligator soaking up the sun on a big rock, looking almost surreal.
Alligator in the New Orleans Bayous
As the boat slowed down and T. Earl cut the engine, the silence was profound. Peacefully gliding through the water, we were surrounded by dense cypress trees draped in Spanish moss. The sunlight filtered through the leaves, reflected off the shallow water, and created a cathedral-like atmosphere.
Alligators
The swamp wildlife is diverse and offers sightings of alligators, turtles, snakes, and an impressive array of bird species, including egrets, herons, and ospreys. We stopped several times to observe the alligators. These powerful prehistoric creatures slid silently through the water next to our boat, their eyes barely visible above the surface. Fascinating and a little unsettling.
Alligator approaching our boat
Our guide was extremely knowledgeable regarding the ecosystem and how the swamps have shaped the landscape and culture of New Orleans. He turned out to be the closest we’ll ever get to Crocodile Dundee. Fearlessly, he grabbed a decent-sized alligator out of the water. His willingness to do anything for money had taught him several lessons. A 72-stitch scar on his neck from an alligator attack proved his point
The New Orleans Bayous
Hurricanes
The most striking part of the tour was perhaps when we witnessed the devastating ecological and environmental damages of the recent hurricanes. We were surrounded by water as far as the eye could reach. Intense winds and heavy rains had flooded the wetlands and threatened the Bayou wildlife.
Furthermore, the destruction of cypress trees compromises the swamp’s ability to filter pollutants and protect against further flooding. So, even though the Bayou seems like a place untouched by time, continued loss of land can result in the complete disappearance of this unique ecosystem. This, among other things, will make the city of New Orleans more vulnerable to future storms as well.
NAPOLEON HOUSE
Following the thrilling airboat experience in the Bayous, we went straight to lunch at Napoleon House, This restaurant is a classic Creole landmark, in the French Quarter, with weathered walls, uneven floors, and faded memorabilia.
Napoleon House
We got a table in the charming courtyard and ordered a muffuletta sandwich, seafood gumbo, and a Boudin sausage, all traditional southern dishes. New Orleans is famous for its flavorful food, which reflects a blend of French, Creole, and Cajun influences.
JACKSON SQUARE
Jackson Square is a natural starting point for a tour around New Orleans. Don’t forget to admire the St. Louis Cathedral, the oldest cathedral in North America.
St. Louis Cathedral in Jackson Square
The Mississippi River runs close to Jackson Square, opposite the French Quarter. We walked down to see the famous steamboat, Natchez, navigate the river with its iconic paddlewheel. The New Orleans Steamboat Company offers various jazz cruises and other special events on Natchez.
Iconic paddlewheel boat Natchez on the Mississippi River
BEIGNETS AT CAFé DU MONDE
Across from the Cathedral, we found another must-visit in New Orleans, Café Du Monde. The bakery is open 24 hours and is famous for its beignets. Most likely there is a long line to order these warm, fluffy, powdered sugar-covered pastries, but they will be worth the wait.
Eating Beignets at Café Du Monde
THE FRENCH QUARTER
Finally, we were ready to explore the French Quarter. It’s the oldest neighborhood in New Orleans and also a neighborhood filled with contrasts and surprises.
We walked up and down the narrow streets, among colorful buildings with intricate cast-iron balconies. We passed lush, hidden courtyards, historic landmarks, and street performers. Live jazz spilled out from every corner. It felt foreign and mysterious like stepping into a whole different era but somehow familiar at the same time. If you have seen The Princess and the Frog, you get the picture.
Iconic New Orleans architecture with intricate cast-iron balconies
HURRICANES AT PAT O’BRIEN’s
We stopped at Pat O’Brien’s, a renowned bar and restaurant famous for its signature drink, the Hurricane. The Hurricane is a bright orange tropical drink served in a large curvy glass and garnished with an orange slice and a cherry. However, if you don’t specifically order it to be served in a curvy glass (which costs a little extra), it will be served in a plastic cup, and you’ll be disappointed. Tastes the same but not the same experience.
At Pat O’Brien’s, we had our Hurricanes (in plastic cups) in their beautiful, lush courtyard next to the large fountain. The historic charm of the place was striking. As we were leaving, the atmosphere inside caught our attention. A lively piano bar made the place buzz with energy. Everybody sang along, and so did we.
Decorated French Quarter architecture
BOURBON STREET
By the time we were back on the infamous Bourbon Street, it was bustling with people, and the bars were getting crowded. Neon lights illuminated the historic buildings, and large crowds gathered around street performers and musicians. Purple, green, and gold Mardi Gras beads (representing Justice, Faith, and Power) were tossed from the balconies. Young kids played drums on empty buckets to earn a few coins; people had their picture taken with a huge snake; old guys were playing chess, and a high school marching band marched through the crowds. The craziness was real and added to a vibrant, bohemian atmosphere.
Scenes from Bourbon Street
PSYCHIC READING AT Jackson Square
Exhausted from a long, busy day, we went back to Jackson Square. The square had transformed into a magical place with the Cathedral as a dramatic highlighted centerpiece. Various artists displayed their artwork, and psychic readers had set up along the square. The Psychics offered services like tarot card readings, crystals, palm readings, and astrological consultations. For $40, I was told that I was destined for a long, happy, successful, and prosperous life. My worries were behind me, my finances would improve even more, and big opportunities were coming my way. Allan thought it was a waste of money, but clearly (…) that was not the case.
Artists displaying their art on Jackson Square
A New Orleans Wedding
We had a late dinner at Café Pontalba, serving Creole Cajun specialties. While eating, we witnessed a traditional New Orleans wedding. The married couple came out from the Cathedral and were joined by their guests in a lively procession through the streets. People were waving white handkerchiefs and the couple were holding black and white sequined umbrellas while dancing to a brass band that followed along.
This experience was such a neat way to end our day in New Orleans. After a thrilling airboat ride in the Bayou, exploring the beautiful French Quarter, flavorful Southern cuisine, lively Bourbon Street, and finally the wedding procession, we felt like we had indeed discovered both the heart and soul of this unique city.
Scenes from Bourbon Street
Explore More
If you have more time to explore New Orleans than we did, check out the Warehouse/Arts District where you’ll find a mix of converted warehouses, art galleries, restaurants, and cultural attractions. Key attractions include the Contemporary Arts Center, the Ogden Museum of Southern Art, and the National WWII Museum.
Or experience a quieter, more refined side of New Orleans in the Garden District. This historic neighborhood showcases beautifully preserved antebellum architecture and charming cottages along tree-lined streets.
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Want to know more about my take on navigating midlife? Check out the midlife journal